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Hi Guys,

Does anyone know a site where to buy lowering links for a 2012 Highball?

And has anyone done it in there garage, and was it easy?

I wanna buy them and do it myself as i cant imagine changing a linkage with 2 bolts would be difficult

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Lower!!!,fuck man thay scrape enough as it is lol,ive got one to mate,let me know how ya go,check polaris of Gainsville,they seem to have an awful lot of gear at fairly gd prices,im about to mount jackpot supports for the fwd controls to stop dragging my pegs everytime i come out of an off-camber turn/round-a-bout,they are 2" higher and 2"further fwd then the std Hi-balls,regardless you have bought the best model mate,HIGHBALLS RULE,

So i just took a gamble and purchased lowering links from ebay for $48 plus shipping.

Scrapping pegs all day long hahahahahaha

Fuck yeah i wanna lower it 1.5 inches in the rear. I most likely will put on forward controls and raise them up also as i have heard the same thing about scraping pegs.I have a mate who put on crash bars and it looks ACE...

I think i might buy the linkage myself and just do it in my garage. Cant be that hard, Just chain tensioning might have to be looked at

Highballs forever baby!!!!

Thorbo, you would probably need to clearance your front pulley cover (angle change).

Bang On.

Hey "Thorbo"!  Just today I finished lowering my Kingpin.  It's been great, took my daughter for a spin today and scraped the pegs a couple times but it wasn't that bad. 

The first thing I did was put in some sheet metal to shield my rear fender wire harness.  Got that from  When lowering a Kingpin the rear wheel can bump the underside of the rear fender sometimes on bumps and so on; that can rip out your wires back there.  I don't know how it is on a Highball...

Next I put in the lowering links which dropped the bike an inch and a quarter.  The geometry changes so the drive belt started rubbing on the front pulley cover and I had to take off the cover and grind down the metal so the belt wouldn't rub on the cover, did that yesterday; however, with no rear shock absorber "pre-load" the cover and belt still rubbed so I had to add some "pre-load" to the rear shock to give myself a bit more clearance.  I tested the clearance after adjusting it in the barn by putting my wife a couple daughters on the bike and having them bounce up and down to simulate rough roads; once I had enough "pre-load" added to that rear shock, it did not rub.  Cool. 

Even with adding "pre-load" I am happy with the lower seat on my Kingpin.  It really makes a difference when handling bike at low speeds, going through sand, etc

Hi Steven,

Firstly thanks for the info.

Sounds like a pain in the ass!

I havnt done much work on bikes so your explanation scares the shit out of me, Wondering have i wasted my money on lowering links..

When you say "pre load" i dont know what you mean?

I thought i was gonna be ok until i saw this. Not like a car where you can chop the springs and scrape on the ground...

Appreciate the info though,

Hey Thorbo!  Lowering was kind of a pain but not too bad, and the benefit is terrific.  The term "pre-load" is an odd one that I got from another Victory blog site.  It refers to the amount of tension on the shock absorber spring. 

Taking off "pre-load" lowers the bike, at least on Kingpins; it also gives a softer ride, more bouncy you might say.  Adding "pre-load" raises the bike a wee bit and stiffens the ride.  "Pre-load" adjustment on a Kingpin involves taking off the seat, unbolting a bracket for some relays under there, loosening a lock nut on the shock absorber, and turning the adjustment ring down or up to increase or decrease, respectively, your shock absorber "pre-load"  Good directions for doing this are right in the owner's manual for my Kingpin.

Lowering my Kingpin has greatly improved the ride appeal; for instance, riding through loose sand, or going over uneven surfaces maneuvering bike at low speeds, are no longer intimidating or scary like they used to be before lowering my bike.  There was always the concern that I would get to a spot where the bike wheels were on high ground but my feet were over a dip and I wouldn't be able to get a solid stance with my legs to hold up the machine.  I took a number of tumbles with this bike being a little bit tall for me; now it feels great.

Whats hard about this,

And you are a Marine ENGINEER ?


I think you will be fine Luke,


Al, I didn't say it was hard, just "kind of a pain."

Changing the links is the easy part.  Taking off the pulley cover is a little more involved because you have to loosen up the exhaust pipes to pull them away from the bike which allows removing the cover, then you have to figure out how much metal to remove.  Fortunately I had some people available to come out and weigh down the bike so I could check for clearance between belt and cover as I added more and more pre-load to the shock.

Test riding my Kingpin with my wife sitting on the back was an eye-opener: she told me we had a strange noise from the wheel/fender area when going over bumps in the road, stuff I could not hear from the operator seat.  This problem went away after I added practically the maximum preload to my shock; I mean the adjustment ring is turned nearly all the way down now, had to do it to get rid of the rubbing after installing the inch and a quarter lowering links.



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